2008 Reflections Summer Cruise

August 21 - 23, Hunter Bay and Port Gamble

2008-08-23T14:21:00.000-07:00

The weather was still cool, but improving and the seas rippled. We anchored in Hunter Bay, setting 2 crab pots on the way in. Shortly after getting settled we were joined by Magic Moment and Mirage, rafted on either side. Glen and Liz had his parents and a friend aboard, so we spent a lovely afternoon playing bridge with Doug and Gail on our flybridge. Nat and Doug bid and made another slam, Doug having bid and made 7 spades the last time we played. Nonetheless, Gail and I won the round. It was a fun afternoon.

After just three hours we picked up our crab pots, finding six keepers in one. We set for the evening as well, ending up with three more nice sized crabs. Everyone got together for cocktails and hors d’oeuvres on Reflections, and then we enjoyed a crab dinner with Doug and Gail on Mirage.

We said goodbye the next morning to Magic Moment and Mirage, and picked up our crab pots – 6 more keepers! The weather was calm and nice and we had a smooth ride across the straits to Port Ludlow. We stayed there at the dock and then were picked up by RHYC members Dick & Marilyn Hampton for dinner at their lovely home. Dick fixed a fabulous prime rib – a real treat – and we ended the evening playing some bridge there as well.

We’re back home now at Shilshole Marina. The weather is warm and hazy and the seas were like glass. Our fuel efficiency this summer was our best ever, averaging 8.9 gallons per hour and 0.82 miles per gallon. We traveled 1141 nautical miles all together, putting 157.48 hours on the engines. God and markets willing, our plans are already in the works for an even longer cruise next summer.

This is one of those times we most appreciate living aboard: we continue to enjoy marina ambience, coming home and being home being one and the same.

THE END

August 17 - 21, Tod Inlet to Friday Harbor

2008-08-21T09:53:00.000-07:00

We cruised to Tod Inlet under hot, muggy skies, anchoring and rafting to Mirage. The afternoon was spent trying to keep cool. Nat swam while Gail, her friend Vicki and I sat on the bow and talked. The water, full of jellyfish and seaweed, looked uninviting to us. I enjoyed reading for awhile as well, gently swinging from the davit in our air chair. Dinner that evening was shared on Mirage as a thunderstorm began.

The next morning we watched an otter family feeding right behind the boats as we drank our coffee. Taking the dinghy into shore we walked the park trail, picking blackberries and apples as we went. We’d heard from Glen & Liz Dodge aboard Magic Moment, so, soon after returning to the big boats, they arrived. It was so much fun to greet them after keeping up with their adventures via their blog. Together we all took our dinghies to the lovely Brentwood Inn for lunch. Throughout the afternoon we relaxed and visited then shared dinner on Reflections’ flybridge. Desert was a delicious, fresh apple-blackberry crisp, the evening ending viewing Alaska slides aboard Magic Moment.

A fairly major storm (very low pressure for August) was heading our way once again, so we had decided to spend that extra night in Tod Inlet rather than the more exposed Sydney Spit. But the next morning we thought it best to head across Haro Strait in the morning to get tucked in. We said goodbye to our friends for now and had a gentle crossing and trip to Friday Harbor, getting a nice push from the current.

Arriving in Friday Harbor it took some time to clear Customs…no problem, just slow…then we tied up at the SYC outstation. We felt lucky to get space with the predicted wind. When we arrived, though, it was still fairly pleasant, so we walked into town for some supplies. It began to rain just as we returned. We spent a cozy evening watching a movie as the wind and rain finally arrived. The night was pretty bouncy, so we were glad to be securely tied.

The next morning we finished cleaning the boat then walked to town for lunch, once again arriving back at Reflections just as another rain/wind squall hit. So the afternoon was just another cozy, relaxing one spent reading and catching up on e-mails and blogs. We’d rented a movie in town, so after dinner we watched that.

We’re off this morning to Hunter Bay, Lopez Island where we’ll meet Magic Moments and hopefully, Mirage for one last night of crabbing and playing.

August 14 - 17, Sydney & Ladysmith

2008-08-20T12:27:00.000-07:00

Indeed the 14th proved to be the hottest day of the summer, so our timing for summer fun was perfect. Ryan and Holly were waiting at the Van Isle Marina dock in Sydney when we arrived, and we immediately headed back north through Sansum Narrows. The current was giving us a nice 2 – 3 knot push while everyone enjoyed watching a mama seal and her baby as well as a another large seal jumping in our wake.

Arriving at Oven Island less than three hours later we all went swimming off the rocks on the north end of the island. Even Kacey voluntarily got in for a swim. After a dinghy ride around Ladysmith Harbor with Jacob and Sean we enjoyed our dinner on the dock’s picnic table. It was just too hot on the flybridge. But the evening was magnificent, the warm still air continuing. Not even dew fell, a rare occurrence in the northwest, as we danced under the rising full moon.

The next day continued warm, but a few clouds came in. While Sean and Holly kayaked around the island, we set crab traps across the harbor. For lunch we took the dinghy into Chemanus, a little town at the south end of Ladysmith with wonderful murals painted on building walls. After lunch we wandered around the town enjoying ice cream and ice mochas.

Returning to Reflections the clouds were clearing. With the waters glassy calm and relatively warm it was a perfect day to get out the inner tube for laugh-filled rides behind the dinghy. Even Linda went…it was a blast!

Our dinner that evening was late enough that we were able to enjoy it on the flybridge. After dinner the beautiful full harvest moon rose above the islands.

We were up early to another beautiful day on the 16th for the cruise back to Sydney. Once docked at Van Isle Nat, Ryan and the boys washed the boat while Holly and I bought some supplies in town. Then all went off in the dinghy for another fun afternoon digging in the sand and lying on the beach at Sydney Spit Marine Park. That evening we enjoyed clam linguine on the flybridge.

It’s now the morning of the 17th and we’ve just said our goodbyes to the kids as they begin their long drive back to Salem. We’ll head out soon to meet up with Mirage in Tod Inlet, hopefully after I upload blog and pics. I must say it’s with a mixture of sadness and relief that we said those goodbyes.

August 9 - 14, Port Townsend, Sucia & Genoa

2008-08-20T11:51:00.001-07:00

We anchored in front of the town, meeting Ryan, Holly, the boys and Father Bill & Sue Maxwell at St. Paul’s Episcopal Church. Bill & Sue live in Port Townsend, so he held the service in their beautiful little church. Afterwards, Ryan and Holly took us all to a great dinner at a nearby restaurant. Then the boys spent the night with us on the boat, the “newlyweds” going back to the Maxwell’s guest house. Not a very restful night, Sean (the youngest) deciding he wanted to spend the night in our bed. Nat had his half of the bed, Sean, I and Kacey the other half. I think everyone but Linda was perfectly comfortable.

The next morning we cruised with the boys to Sucia Island after meeting everyone for breakfast at Point Hudson. Actually, Ryan and Holly went to the wrong restaurant, but eventually we met up. It was a wonderfully calm day for a cruise back across the Straits of Juan de Fuca. The weather was improving and we anchored in Shallow Bay five hours later. Taking the dinghy to shore, Kacey became a little over-anxious and slid off the dinghy into the water well out in the bay. He swims well, but when we finally drug him back into the skiff he yelped like he was being killed. He’s such a wuss! In the meantime Sean and Jacob dared each other to dunk in the water...water about 58*. Back on Reflections we enjoyed hamburgers, a great sunset and then watched Finding Nemo.

We awoke on the 12th to a beautiful warm morning and took a 2 ½ mile hike to Fossil Bay and back. At Chinaman’s Rock in Shallow Bay the boys enjoyed climbing in the caves while we nervously watched and took some pictures. After lunch all three took the kayaks back to the beach and they and other kids played all afternoon on the logs and in the rock pools as the tide came over the warm sand. Nat and I took the dinghy in to check on them a couple of times, watched them through binoculars and even jigged for a bit in front of the bay. I caught a couple of rock fish which we fried up for dinner along with some fresh crab cakes. Once we finally convinced the boys to come back to Reflections they devoured the fish. That evening we watched another beautiful sunset followed by an episode of Planet Earth.

The weather continued good on the 13th with not a breath of wind. Jacob made us all pancakes for breakfast and then we took a walk to the rocks below Lawson’s Bluff. Pulling anchor around noon we found it thoroughly covered with seaweed, so I snapped a picture of all men aboard cleaning the seaweed-full anchor. After another calm cruise with the clouds coming in a bit we arrived at Customs. Nat called in saying that for the boys he had one original passport and two copies…no problem; they just commented that all three boys had been here before.

We spent the night there in Poet’s Cove, the boys enjoying the swimming pool as it began to lightly rain. That night they ate hot dogs with macaroni and cheese while Nat and I enjoyed steak oscar with the last of the fresh crab legs. Leaving Poet’s Cove late morning we headed to Genoa Bay on Vancouver Island there to meet Doug and Gail and their guests aboard Mirage. The boys can’t wait to stay aboard eating hamburgers and watching one of their movies while Nat and I enjoy a much needed dinner out. Moored just ahead of us as we arrived at Genoa Bay was Finally, another RHYC boat with Jack and Kay Huen.

The afternoon was spent relaxing, the boys enjoying a dinghy ride with Nat around the bay and to a nearby bakery and, of course, finding ice cream. At dinner time they ate their hamburgers on the flybridge while we enjoyed everyone’s company aboard Mirage’s flybridge right across the dock. Austin came over after a bit, preferring the company of the grown-ups. Our dinner at the little restaurant at the top of the dock was wonderful, great food, great company, and the boys did well on board, watching a Star Wars movie. The evening ending with the usual…Gamma Linda reading in our bed with Jacob and Sean.

It’s now Thursday, the 14th and soon we’ll say goodbye to Mirage and Finally as we head to Sydney to pick up Ryan and Holly. It’s sunny, calm and going to be a hot one today!

August 6 - 9, Parks Bay, Shaw & Hunter Bay, Lopez

2008-08-09T11:51:00.000-07:00

Austin arrived at just before 5:30pm and we headed out to Parks Bay, Shaw Island to join Mirage and Crescendo. The evening was lovely with a beautiful sunset, and Austin enjoying going from boat to boat in the raft.

Thursday, the 7th found the weather cooler, breezy but still sunny. Austin, Nat and I took the across the channel to Friday Harbor for gas in the dinghy and some groceries. Then Austin joined Steve on Crescendo for a gentle sail to Hunter Bay, Lopez Island. Our original destination had been Spencer Spit State Park, but it’s pretty exposed and the wind was picking up. When Crescendo arrived in Hunter Bay three hours later we were rafted with Mirage and waiting. Hunter Bay was a new anchorage for us, shallow, protected and quite nice. Soon thereafter Low Seas and Patriot joined us as well. We and Jeff and Angie set our crab pots a couple of times and easily got lots of crab. We’ll come back here!

All but Lohse’s decided to stay another night and on Friday enjoyed a lazy day. The weather had turned cool and cloudy. We all played Mexican Train then went for a sail on Crescendo. The guys struggled to fly Steve’s new gennaker sail (a cross between a genoa and a spinnaker) and, as you see from the pictures, finally succeeded. With 12.5 knot winds in Rosario Straits it was a perfect sail, cruising along at 8.5 knots. The guys were very excited. That evening we enjoyed a shared crab dinner on Mirage, then together watched a movie on Reflections.

We were up early this morning to break the raft and head our separate ways. The winds were going to get worse, so we wanted to cross the Straits of Juan de Fuca as soon as possible. The last picture shows us safely arriving in Port Townsend where we’re currently fueling. We’ll add about 600 gallons, but the good news is this is the first time we’ve had to refuel since leaving the States 5 weeks ago! We came in on fumes, but we made it.

There’s no room in the marinas, so our plan is to anchor in front of the town.

August 3-6, Reid Harbor, Stuart Island

2008-08-06T16:32:00.001-07:00

Reid Harbor was indeed a quiet interlude. The weather is beautiful and the harbor, though full of boats, peaceful. We stayed until this morning, the 6th, kayaking to nearby Cemetery and Gossip Islands, walking the trails, reading and sharing dinners and wine with good friends. We watched seals play and fish in the harbor and a mother eagle train her crying babe to fly.

Our first night found us rafted with SeaJay, Mirage and Steve Driscoll on Crescendo. There were several other RHYC boats in the harbor, so a bunch of us got together on Mirage to play Left-Right-Center, a silly but fun dice game for a big group. On the 4th Doug decided to go see a doctor in Friday Harbor about his back, still smarting from the fall in the water at Sucia. He and Gail returned the next day with prescriptions and luckily no more than pulled muscles and a deep bruise. Uncomfortable but slowly getting better. Last evening we went for an afternoon sail aboard Crescendo. The winds were light, but just a beautiful experience.

This morning we visited with old neighborhood friends aboard Sea Rose. They together with Shilshole Marina live-aboard neighbors on sailing vessels Pearl and Ghost were all tied to a raft in the harbor, and so we had a nice visit with all. Making the run over to Roche Harbor we received the message that Austin wouldn’t be coming in until 5:30pm, so now we’re hanging out at Henry Island. We’ve dropped crab traps, went to lunch over at Roche and then visited with Lohse’s and Kroeller’s who are still moored at Roche. When Austin arrives we’ll go raft once again with Mirage and Crescendo in another nearby bay.

July 31 to August 3, Sucia to Roche Harbor

2008-08-03T11:33:00.001-07:00

Woops…it seems we’re not up to date on the citrus rules. We thought cut up fruit was okay; but Customs boarded the boat, asked us to open our refrigerator, confiscated our lemons, limes and oranges and questioned us for a bit. Nothing else taken, but it is difficult staying up with the rules.

We headed over to Sucia Island where the gang was rafted. Six boats ended up together, the stern tie transferring to Reflections. It was great fun to see everyone and catch up over shared hors d’oeuvres and cocktails. A few of us went to the beach to roast hot dogs, but the cool and now drizzly weather discouraged others. Back at the boats we continued to visit and yes, share wine. That might have had something to do with what happened next: Doug, heading back to Mirage, grabbed our swim ladder which happened to not be firmly attached to the handrail and both ladder and Doug fell in slow motion into the frigid water. No major damage at the time, but he’s had a very sore back ever since.

No sooner had things settled down from that near disaster when the wind and rain picked up, the boats began rocking noisily against each other, and the stern lines pulled loose. Actually, the log to which they were tied pulled into the water at high tide. So Nat and Jim Matheson spent the next hour in the dark and stormy night retrieving the mass of line and setting a stern anchor to keep the raft secure. It could have been a real disaster. We finally went to bed around midnight…not a very restful night. The next morning the weather had improved, but it took well over an hour to untangle the rat’s nest of lines and seaweed…check out the picture.We knew we’d missed these guys…such entertainment is provided when we get together!

We discovered one final problem before heading to Roche Harbor: while trying to keep some of the seaweed from the tangled lines off our stern deck last night, Nat turned on the hose, leaving it on all night and completely emptying our water tanks. So we had no water until we could refill at Roche and then bleed the lines. Oh well…such is boating.

The Colors cruise began Friday the 1st and was a great time. We shared fun stories, cocktails and hors d’oeuvres all weekend, played some bridge on Mirage, had a pet parade on the dock and a dinghy parade around the harbor. I went to the spa for a massage and manicure, and last night we all enjoyed a Cajun gumbo dinner. The highlight of Colors cruise is always watching our Bridge officers join in the ceremony. It’s a moment of both pride and laughter as the tradition has them jumping into the water (nasty, dirty by the fuel dock as well as cold) following the ceremony. The pictures show them holding the flags just before jumping and then Jeff Kroeller, Steve Driscoll and Bob Maruska after getting out of the water. So many of us were on the old fuel dock to watch we heard a loud crack as the dock itself began to break. We got off before it did so, though. It was a great cruise with 54 club boats in attendance and 139 people.

The night ended Saturday with a gathering on Reflections flybridge (the weather, by the way, improving greatly). With the new moon the stars were brilliant, and we danced under them joined by Larry & Wendy Meyers and Jeff & Laurie Stewart.

This morning we said our goodbyes over beignettes served on the dock and now are preparing to shove off to spend a couple of nights at anchor in Reid Harbor, Stuart Island. Mirage and SeaJay will be joining us as well and we’re looking forward to a quiet, somewhat more sober night. But it has been fun!

7-29 to 7-31, Cortez Bay to Roche Harbor

2008-07-31T13:22:00.000-07:00

Once safely docked in Cortez Bay we began cleaning the boat. Nothing in my cupboards was left standing. I do hate the sound of things crashing around when we’re cruising! The wind was still howling, but the rain had stopped, so once clean of salt spray and things put upright we took the short hike to Red Granite Lookout just above the bay. The pictures show the water with lots of “fluffy sheep”, i.e., big whitecaps.

Back from our hike we joined other SYC boaters in the clubhouse for a dock box social, sharing hors d’oeuvres. We enjoyed meeting up with Bob & Karen from Lioness, mutual friends of George and Patricia Robertson. Our plan is to all get together in October when George returns from Maine for some work time in Seattle. Back on Reflections we enjoyed a cozy evening and wonderful meal of Linda’s paella, adding the remaining crab and a bunch of the clams we’ve managed to keep healthy.

One more comment on this very unseasonable gale, especially for these mid-Vancouver Island waters. We blame the Dodge’s, Miner’s and Gail Stewart. The former returned from Alaska with their bad weather while Gail’s name speaks for itself. We discovered that in prior years north of Cape Caution, but this year she and Doug stayed south. What more can I say?!

The 30th was one of the longest cruising days we’ve ever had as we continue to push south to meet up with Doug and Gail (are we nuts?). Actually we’ve missed them, our cruising buddies, and can’t wait to see them. Doug called just as we came by the north end of Lasquiti Island, and they and many of the RHYC gang will be anchored tonight and tomorrow off Echo Bay, Sucia Island. We left Cortez at 7:00am. The wind had died and the seas were calm in the beginning, but had risen to a 3 foot chop by the time we came into Nanaimo. Nat and I changed watches every hour and a half and found it a pleasant way to manage a long run. We reached Dodd Narrows at 3:30pm, just before slack, having average just about 9 knots. We’re still working on conserving fuel, our goal now to not buy any of the very expensive Canadian fuel. It’s running just under $6.50 a gallon up here. With our conservation we’re burning less than 10 gallons per hour, well better than prior years’ 15 gallons an hour.

At 4:30pm we arrived at Oven Island in Ladysmith Harbor only to find the dock completely full. So we anchored just off the dock, but by the time we launched our dinghy and settled in a bit before heading over to the island for a walk, Kacey had been waiting 11 hours. At least we didn’t have to do that. He does have a litter box, but won’t use it while running and then only as a last resort.

It’s now the morning of the 31st and we’re cruising down to Roche Harbor to check in at Customs, hopefully upload this and then go on to Sucia. We were finally able to sleep in a bit, though our collapse early into bed last night didn’t encourage late sleep. Turning on our radio, the first thing we heard was a May Day call, always disconcerting. It was a low spring tide and a small sailboat had run into a rock near Point Roberts and was taking on water. Last we heard they managed to get a tow before sinking. While that rescue was still in progress we heard a second May Day call, this time from a 48 foot Canoe Cove power boat which had run into a rock in nearby Porlier Pass. While they weren’t taking on water, they did destroy both props and were drifting towards more rocks. It does make you pay closer attention to your own charts and GPS. Yesterday we heard a May Day call, though, that was not chart, but weather related. The couple from Bon Echo, the people we’d dined with at Cordero Lodge, we’re broaching as they attempted to enter Comox. They sounded truly frightened, and I know the feeling. The Coast Guard instructed them to continue running south into the wind rather than attempt the turn until another boat could get to them. I’m not sure how far they had to go or what another boat could do in heavy seas, and we never heard the ending. As scary as those situations can be, though, these boats can handle more than the people aboard feel they can.

We’re getting close to Roche Harbor now, so I’d better cut up some fruit and get it into the fridge. Cut up fruit is okay but not fresh fruit. Or is that only going INTO Canada?

July 26 - 29, Southgate Group to Cortez Bay

2008-07-29T13:21:00.000-07:00

Awoke to thick fog and a gentle mist, so enjoyed a lazy morning. Gary & Lenore picked up a couple more nice crabs in one of their pots. We headed south towards Sullivan Bay around noon, the mist and fog looking like gauze and spider webs gently draping the islands, and the seas flat calm.

We arrived at Sullivan Bay after a pleasant 4 hour cruise, where I spent the rest of the late afternoon struggling to upload pictures. Finally gave up part way through in favor of cocktail hour, finishing instead the next morning. After dinner Lenore and Linda killed the guys at WII bowling once and for all, then watched another episode of Planet Earth.

Sunday, the 27th (I have to look on a calendar to see the day of the week) was a cloudy, lazy morning. We watched some dolphins playing in the bay then enjoyed a goodbye lunch at the restaurant with Gary & Lenore. They’re heading out to anchor in Turnbull Cove while we begin a push south to join Mirage, SeaJay and other RHYC friends for an annual pre-RHYC Colors cruise get-together at Sucia Island.

We cruised slowly on to Matilpa, an abandoned Indian village in Havannah Channel, hoping to anchor there for an early morning run down Johnstone Straits. Finding it fairly full with other boats planning the same thing, we anchored instead in Burial Cove across the way. There were some cabins on shore so it didn’t seem too haunted, and with the weather clearing it was actually quite lovely. As we left Sullivan lots of boats were pulling in giving us our first indication that a good-sized storm was approaching. Coming out of the Gulf of Alaska it was apparently one of the lowest pressure readings ever seen in the summer. Anchoring out was a risk, but the Timm’s and we calculated that the storm wouldn’t arrive until at least mid-morning the following day. Hence, the decision for an early morning run down the Straits.

As we prepared our dinner of cracked crab and clam pasta Glen Dodge called. They’d safely made the Cape Caution crossing, also running to stay ahead of the impending storm, and had arrived in Port Hardy. It was great talking to him and we’re sorry to have just missed, but they’ll try to hook up with the Timm’s somewhere in the Broughton Islands.

On the 28th indeed we were up at 5:30am and along with the other boats anchored at Matilpa, headed south. It was actually a pretty morning, though an unseasonably cold 48*. Johnstone Straits offered no more than rippled seas, so rather than duck into Sunderland Channel we went on down to Mayne Channel, thus avoiding Whirlpool and Green Point Rapids.

A word about these crossings and rapids we discuss, for those of you not familiar with Inside Passage boating: There are a series of open water crossings and rapid water flows that must be transited to reach different cruising areas. From Seattle the major crossings include the Straits of Juan de Fuca, separating Washington State from British Columbia (although these can be avoided through a longer route behind Whidbey Island), the Straits of Georgia, heading from the Gulf Islands to the Desolation Sound area, the Johnstone Straits, connecting an area just north of Desolation to the Broughton archipelago, and the “dreaded” Cape Caution, connecting the Broughtons with the very remote northern B.C. coast. Each crossing is increasingly more challenging and very much weather dependent, the advantage being that this keeps the majority of boats south. In rough weather or as the typical northwest winds rise in the afternoon, you just don’t want to be there. If going clear to Alaska you also cross Dixon Entrance between Prince Rupert, B.C. and Ketchikan.

The rapids, on the other hand, are not weather dependent, but time dependent. As I write this it’s the 29th and the storm is finally upon us. The rain and wind have us glad to be “inside” and not attempting any crossings, but we are going down through Dent and Yuculta Rapids. These you don’t want to do in anything other than slack or near slack water (when the tides change from low to high or high to low and the currents slow for their change). If attempted, the whirlpools and over-falls would give your boat more of a dangerous amusement park ride than a cruise. Even now, just past slack in Yuculta, we’re twisting and turning a bit.

We were up early again this morning to head down to Cortez Bay and the SYC outstation there. We’ll have to hold up there for the day and night as the crossing down the Straits of Georgia sounds a bit too lumpy, as the Canadians say.

Yesterday, we arrived at Cordero Lodge at 11:00am then immediately let down the dinghy to go fishing. Though cloudy and cool, the rain hadn’t begun and the breeze was still light. We ran about 7 miles over to Denham Bay, fishing but not catching for about 3 hours. Lots of guide boats were there as well but no one got so much as a bite. It could be the salmon were still spooked from the pod of orcas we understand were there feeding earlier in the day. As we headed back to the Lodge, the rain and wind were just beginning. Cordero’s a good place to be in nasty weather, though, offering a warm and welcoming German dining experience. We enjoyed a dinner of schnitzel and sauerbraten, joined at our table by Chris and Toula on Bon Echo, a retired couple living in Nanaimo.

An update just before attempting my upload: we arrived safely in Cortez Bay and here ran into Don & Mary Simpson. We were lucky to get a space just as another boat left. We can’t imagine why he left because the entrance into the bay from around Mary Point in Desolation Sound was nasty. There were 4 foot seas coming up from the Georgia Straits, so we went well south into them before turning into the bay in order to minimize beam seas. The seas were so steep, though, and running so fast that they surfed us in, causing us to slip down the side, yaw and then roll uncomfortably far. A roll too far turns into a broach, something we’ve experienced and don’t ever want to again. Desolation Sound is normally so settled this time of year! Luckily that didn’t last more than a few minutes, but it got my heart pounding. Early tomorrow we’re hoping the storm settles enough to allow our run down the Straits of Georgia. If not, dear RHYC friends, you’ll know we tried.

7-23 to 7-25, Blunden to Alison Harbor

2008-07-26T16:59:00.000-07:00

As I write this it’s Thursday, the 24th and we’re cruising slowing down Belize Inlet, heading southbound after a magnificent day. It always makes me a little sad to make the turn for home. We could easily spend a couple of weeks behind Nakwakto Rapids.

We left Blunden yesterday after a leisurely morning, heading north for Allison Harbor and the Rapids. The cruise itself was magnificent, the water calm and the sun glorious. As we came out the harbor we were greeted by a pod of orcas traveling along nearby. We had a nice push from the current, so knowing we’d arrive well before slack, we poked our way through myriad little islands, any of which would make beautiful anchorages. After winding through the Southgate Group we toured Allison Harbor and then Murray Labyrinth, pausing there for lunch. It truly was a labyrinth, more than once causing us to spin Reflections on a dime. Noon Balloon led the way, so that gave us some comfort. While we ate our lunch we watched a loon fishing alongside.

Finally it was time to head up narrow Schooner Channel and approach the fearsome Nakwakto Rapids, fearsome because at maximum ebb they can flow as much as 16 knots, believed to be the fastest navigable rapids in the world. We reached it at perfect slack, however, and it was like a lake, just small eddies around Turret Island.

From there we made the three hour beautiful slow cruise up into Belize Inlet and Alison Sound, anchoring at the head of the inlet. On the way eagles and osprey fished nearby, waterfalls cascaded down into the fiord-like channel and giant granite walls rose above, trees clinging to the sides. From the time we entered the Rapids we’ve seen not one other boat, though the expanse of water and beautiful anchorages is immense. Alison Sound itself is really a narrow gorge leading into a beautiful large lake-like area with snow-capped peaks rising above at the head. On the way in we found the great Indian pictograph on the granite wall depicting an English ship, long boat, Indian canoes and orcas.

Once anchored we set out our crab pots near the river outlet and then took the dinghy about a mile upriver, enjoying the quiet and the sounds of birds. Dinner last evening was aboard Noon Balloon where Lenore fixed her famous crab baked in a spicy cioppino-like sauce.

We left this morning for the cruise down to an anchorage closer to the Rapids. No crab in the pots, but the glorious weather continues. I think we’d better go fish.

Continued on the 25th…We anchored in Charlotte Bay, reading that there was good crabbing. A logging camp was set up in the bay, but when we saw them cleaning some nice Dungeness on their barge we couldn’t resist. Just as we anchored we heard a large boom…they were dynamiting the nearby hills in their logging operation, so we renamed it Dynamite Cove. Oh well, sometimes you have to compromise. We did end up with 7 good-sized crab overall (mostly Gary & Lenore’s) and then were led by the loggers to the shrimp spot in the middle of the channel just outside the bay. By the next day we had a bunch of large Pacific prawns (8” long) and a bunch of hermit and what we call spider crab.

We jigged for fish that afternoon, but no luck. Considered exploring the lagoons southeast of us, but decided they were a bit too far of a ride, so…next time. Instead we watched a black bear feeding along the shore, then spent the evening WII bowling, Lenore and I coming from behind to beat the guys.

Since we still were yearning for some salmon or halibut, we decided to go out through the rapids on the 25th to anchor in the Southgate Group, one of the lovely maze of islands we’d seen on the way north. We went through the rapids when they were running about 4 knots on the ebb…no problem. In fact, it gave us a nice three knot push through Schooner Channel. Clouds were beginning to increase, but it was still a lovely day. We anchored in an open-looking spot in the islands, looking out over the Queen Charlotte Straits, and as quickly as possible readied the skiffs for fishing. Gary & Lenore jigged for halibut while we trolled for salmon as a huge eagle watched us overhead. We saw lots of bait fish, but weren’t out but a few minutes before it began to drizzle. That would have been fine, but when we saw a pretty significant rain squall headed our way, thought it best to head back to Reflections and Noon Balloon.

As we began preparing our seafood feast that evening, we heard two humpbacks blowing just outside the island where we’d been fishing. We never did see them, but it was fun listening to them in the quiet early evening while we enjoyed our cocktails and guacamole on Reflections’ flybridge, the rain falling gently on the canvas. We’ve still not seen another pleasure craft in several days.

Our seafood feast was amazing. Hopefully our picture gives some idea of the experience: cracked Dungeness crab, prawns two ways…tandoori-style and sautéed in butter and garlic, and clams steamed in garlic, wine and their own juices. And of course, good wine and good friends. The guys finally beat us that evening in WII bowling and the evening was topped off with an episode of Planet Earth and tea with schnapps.

The picture’s are all from Gary’s camera. Somehow, when we were viewing ours I managed to delete them before getting them copied into a file. Bummer! But thank you, Gary!

P.S. I just was able to upload a couple of the photos to the July 10th blog sent us by Dave Hurlein from our Decatur Island stop on the way north.

July 20 - 22, Bradburn Landing to Blunden Harbor

2008-07-26T16:57:00.000-07:00

Sunday the 20th was a busy day of getting ready for our dinner feast aboard Reflections and for our trip north into the wilds. Nat and Gary began by pulling the shrimp pots: one had a nice bunch while three were completely empty. Sort of a mystery, though we suspect they may have been stripped. We took both skiffs into Herriot Bay for gas, supplies and blog uploading. Then the afternoon was spent cooking and washing the boat.

We had hoped George & Julie Selfridge were going to make it in Danny Boy, but they didn’t…there were a lot of rapids to negotiate and it would have been a stretch. So we feasted without them, once again enjoying a fabulous evening. Cocktails and hors d’oeuvres of spicy shrimp in oriental sauce, oysters on the half shell with bloody mary granita and steamed clams. Then down to Reflections for dinner on the fly bridge of beef filet roast with brandy sauce.

A fun filled evening ending with a very funny event. Nat had given me a new remote meat thermometer for Christmas which we used for the first time. When it went off indicating the meat was done an annoying sound began in the galley…like the dying battery of a smoke alarm. We let it go, enjoying our dinner above only to find it still going when we came down to clean up. We isolated it to the electric can opener, but even with all power turned off and the thing unplugged, the sound continued. Finally in frustration Nat unscrewed it from the wall, took it out to the dock and began smashing it with a mallet. I was laughing but trying to get out to stop him (it seemed a little over the top), with Gary blocking my path. The sound continued even with the can opener smashed to bits. At that point Nat through the still beeping interior box into the water. So, Bruce, if whales suddenly start beaching themselves nearby, you’ll know why.

We rose early Monday morning departing at 6:00am to head north. The high pressure was again building with the wind blowing pretty good, so soon after rounding Chatham Point in the Johnstone Straits the seas had built to 3 – 4’. We decided the better part of valor was to duck into Blind Channel. There we stayed until slack water at Green Point rapids, enjoying hamburgers at the little restaurant and the company of Richard & Merlin Symms, RHYC members who were there as well. At the slack we headed on to Forward Harbor. Even Wellbore Channel was pretty lumpy, so we were exhausted by the time we anchored. Still, after a rest Nat and I took the short hike across the peninsula. Then dinners on our own and early to bed.

Tuesday morning the 22nd we again rose at 5:00am, heading up the Straits just before 6:00. Though it started out with a 2 – 3 foot chop it quickly calmed so we decided to keep going, heading all the way up Johnstone and across Queen Charlotte Straits to anchor in Blunden Harbor. It was a bit lumpy by the time we anchored at 1:00pm, but a pretty sunny day, though quite cool…only 60*. Felt good about the progress we’d made in one day. We even encountered a pod of orcas soon after entered Queen Charlotte Strait, but failed to get a picture.

Our afternoon and evening was lovely was again. Set down 4 crab pots, netting 4 crab after 3 hours. Friends of Gary & Lenore, Dick & Donna from Happy Wanderer, came in and rafted with us, so together we enjoyed a dinner of clams in black bean sauce and shrimp fettucine.

7-16 to 7-19, 2008, Oven Island to Desolation

2008-07-20T12:21:00.000-07:00

Pendrell Sound was beautiful. We anchored on a steep-to outside the oyster farm area, 95’ with a stern tie and dove in the water as soon as we were secure. The air was 82* and the water varied from 76 – 78*, no other boats nearby. We paddled in the water, made Kacey go swimming, much to his chagrin, and warmed ourselves on nearby smooth sloping rocks. Nat checked under Reflections, cutting off a bit of crab pot line we’d picked up at Indianola on the 4th. After dinner we cruised to a nearby lagoon, listening to the quiet and the sounds of the birds.

The next morning showed some morning high clouds, the first we’d seen in days, so we decided to leave for our planned rendezvous at Cortez Island with George & Patricia Robertson. Pulled our shrimp pots, this time netting only a half dozen. On our way we received a message that they’d headed on south, so we detoured to continue anchoring, this time going to Prideaux Haven. Heard from Gary & Lenore Timm who were rounding Sarah Point, so we anchored and stern tied in our favorite spot, with a view up the channel towards the snow capped peaks. It’s hard to describe how spirit lifting it is to actually have days of sunshine and warmth all in a row. We feel like thirsty travelers getting our first cold drink of water after a long long time. But then we realize that the beauty around us, the waterfalls, the snowy peaks, the cedars and all the rest owe it to the rain.

Gary and Lenore joined us soon after we were settled. It was so good to see them. The sun had come out, so again we swam in the clear waters around the boats and over to the smooth rock islands behind. Sitting waist deep on an island, it was well up to our chests when Gary said, hey, we’d better go…our island is sinking. With the full moon on the 18th there’s about a 14’ tidal change here. We took a cocktail dinghy cruise around the coves, saying hello to a few boaters each of us knew, then shared a dinner on Reflections fly bridge of Greek shrimp with feta.

We slept in on the 18th, heading up Waddington channel in the Timm’s skiff after breakfast. We said hello to several of their Echo Bay Yacht Club friends anchored and prawning in the area. It was our intention to set our traps there as well, near a large oyster farm, but decided it was a bit far with the wind coming up. We set them instead just outside Prideaux, then relaxed for the afternoon.

Just about 4 shrimp, so we threw them back…too much trouble to boil water. Enjoyed a lazy beautiful afternoon and dinner together on Reflections fly bridge. Just before 11:00pm we watched a magnificent full moon rise above the hillside, a tall single pine tree shadowed in front like an Indian painting.

We pulled anchor around 11:00am this morning heading for Bradburn Landing. The weather once again beautiful and seas calm. We cruised north up Lewis Channel around the north end of Cortez and south down Sutil Channel, setting our shrimp pots behind the Breton Islands on our way in.

Arrival at Bradburn Landing is always a joy. After greeting Meg and Bruce, Gary & Lenore, Nat and I took to the beach to dig clams and gather oysters. It didn’t take us more than 30 minutes to get as many as we could eat in the next week or so. That evening we had a beautiful, fun and memorable evening on the deck of the Bradburn’s home eating clam spaghetti, laughing, sharing and dancing to Willy Nelson.

July 12-16, Oven Island to Desolation Sound

2008-07-16T13:04:00.000-07:00

We spent another lovely day and evening at Roche, visiting with other RHYC friends who’d come in and enjoying the sun. The next morning we left for Oven Island, the SYC outstation in Ladysmith Harbor off central Vancouver Island. Our cruise there was a slow 8 – 9 knots in deference to the fuel prices. No problem with Customs at South Pender, then on to Ganges where we stopped for a couple hours for lunch, some supplies and our Canadian fishing licenses.

We arrived at Oven about 4:30pm after a beautiful sunny cruise north. Seas were calm, the current behind us and the weather 80*. Each day we see bald eagles and seals and today we saw Dahl’s porpoises as well. Docking at Oven we couldn’t wait to walk up to the north end of the little island for a dive into the cool water (67*). It felt wonderful! That evening we once again enjoyed cracked crab and dinner on the flybridge. The sunset was beautiful, the long twilight heavenly and we danced in the fading sun to Deana Carter’s Strawberry Wine. Life doesn’t get much better.

Early on Monday, the 14th we left Oven to pass through Dodd Narrows during slack current, the headed north up the Georgia Straits to Tribune Bay on Hornby Island. The weather was sunny once again but the cruise up lumpy in 3’ seas. Leaving at 6:00am, we arrived at noon, having cruised again at just 9 knots. We anchored in the big bay in front of the large, U- shaped sand beach. After lunch we took the dinghy to St. John Point for a hike along the cliffs of the Provincial Park. Lovely little tidal pools, grassy knolls and beautiful views. Beautiful sunset, pictures above.

The morning of the 15th and I’m sitting here chuckling. Last night was gorgeous once again. A red sunset and gazpacho with fresh crab floating in an avocado half for dinner. This morning we intended to leave early for Desolation Sound hearing the winds pick up as this high pressure system continues to build. Nat took Kacey to shore as I cleaned up from breakfast, and with the tide rapidly receding, got stuck on the beach. The dinghy is now high and dry and it looks like it’ll be four hours until he has enough water under him to float the dinghy. I just wish I were close enough to get a picture! Oh well, not a bad place for a forced change in plans. I may or may not launch the kayak in awhile to join him.

Nat finally made it back nearly 5 hours later with a tired and thirsty Kacey. In the meantime I enjoyed getting house cleaning done and reading. The wind had died, so after lunch we pulled anchor and headed to the Copeland Islands. A lovely 3 hour cruise with following current. Anchored on the outside, putting down shrimp pot in front of e Townley Island across the channel. Another gorgeous evening, once again enjoying cracked crab with steak and salad. We watched sunset this time from the nearby rocks, one large boat anchored nearby and not another in sight.

The night was a bit wakeful as our anchor chain slid back & forth over the rocks, sounding like thunder each time. But all was well and we awoke to another gorgeous day. After breakfast of pancakes with fresh local raspberries, we pulled our shrimp pots finding 105 nice size prawns! Now that our crab is almost gone we were getting desperate. We’re now on our way to Pendrell Sound above Desolation Sound by way of Refuge Cove where I hope to upload the blog and a few pictures.

Ship's Log, July 11-12, Roche Harbor

2008-07-12T13:06:00.000-07:00

The next morning we topped off our fuel at Friday Harbor, $5.15 a gallon (yikes!). With 1200 gallons averaging $5.00 a gallon we’re hoping it’ll last a few miles. We cruised slowly (as we’ll try to do all summer) to Roche Harbor under warm sunny skies, calm winds and beautiful scenery. Summer has finally arrived in the Northwest after a terrible winter and spring.

The RHYC outstation slip was available, so we tucked happily in and went to the restaurant deck for lunch. This place must be one of the most picturesque marine resorts anywhere. In the afternoon we set a couple of crab pots out beside Pearl Island, took our books and the crab ring and spent a couple of hours dipping for crab in nearby Garrison Bay. Garrison Bay is the site of the English Camp during the border dispute between England and the U.S. It ended with a pig being killed, then arbitration setting the U.S./Canadian border. Glad we at least ended up with San Juan Island and Roche Harbor. Back to the crab…dipping netted us just one keeper, but found one more in one of our pots as we headed back to Reflections. Not a bad way to spend an afternoon.

The evening was beautiful and I’ve added some pictures, Nat with our crab, Colors ceremony on the dock, Reflections at our outstation and sunset from our fly bridge.

Deciding we were in no hurry we stayed here for another night. The next morning we checked our pots again after enjoying a crab omelet for breakfast. Found 4 more nice Dungeness…over 7” this time. Linda’s on the dock behind Reflections (and in front of a huge yacht checking in at Customs) with these crab.

Ships Log, July 3 - July 10, 2008. We're off!

2008-07-11T08:12:00.000-07:00

We left Shilshole after dinner last evening, getting away late in hopes the wind would die down. Docked at the Roche Harbor Yacht Club (RHYC) outstation at Kingston after a somewhat lumpy trip over, the weather clear, warm and otherwise beautiful.

Left Kingston this morning, July 10th at 6:00am, heading through Saritoga Passage behind Whidbey Island instead of crossing the Straits of Juan de Fuca. Though the weather is again lovely, six foot wind waves reported in the straits are more than we care to deal with. We decided to continue through the Swinomish Slough to avoid most of Rosario Straits as well because even Saritoga was pretty lumpy. Our destination was Decatur Island for lunch with friends of my brother, Bob. They’re staying in a cabin there for a few days. Dave Hoerlein works for Rick Steve’s Europe Through the Back Door and met with us last week, sharing some ideas about our September European river cruise.

Though it was a hectic few days at work, we feel a bit as if we began our vacation on July 3rd. Karl Wente and his friend, Megan joined us from Livermore, California, and we enjoyed a wonderful holiday weekend with them and the family. On the 3rd of July we rafted in Liberty Bay with other RHYC boats to enjoy the Poulsbo fireworks. Our daughter, Meris, was on the boat with us as well and we later took the dinghy to shore to pick up our grandson, Austin and sister-in-law, Lynn for the show. The next day we headed to Kingston where we were joined by Meris’ friend, Todd, and then all were picked up for a beach party at Bob & Lynn’s Indianola home. It was great fun with massive amounts of fireworks. Both Seattle shows were visible as well as several surrounding us from the Indian reservation. Our nephew, Jon, and his 18 year old friends put on their show of Reservation acquired fireworks. The noise was deafening, the show amazing and the dogs, including Kacey, miserable. Having been cruising in B.C. the last 6 years we were out of touch with how much the shows had grown. Great fun!

The next morning Meris and Todd left for a few days hiking near Mt. Baker. We enjoyed brunch with Lynn & niece, Corinne, at a nearby farmhouse restaurant (followed by a slight problem of running out of gas in Jon’s car) and then headed out to anchor with Karl and Megan in Blakely Harbor, directly across the Sound from downtown Seattle. We beach-combed Blakely Rock at low tide and had a lovely sunny evening, listening to music and enjoying good wine.

Back to today: we anchored in the little bay just behind Decatur Head and met Dave and his family for a nice lunch and the last lovely bottle of wine left by Karl. It’s a very cute cluster of rustic cabins. We put our crab ring down during lunch, and then took everyone out for the pick-up…two keepers! I’m boiling them now as we head over to Friday Harbor to moor at the Seattle Yacht Club (SYC) outstation for the night and make my first attempt at uploading this Word document into Blogspot.

Once moored at Friday Harbor we enjoyed a dock box party (hors d’oeuvres with other club members on the dock), then back to Reflections for a wonderful dinner on our flybridge of fresh cracked crab and spinach salad with fresh local strawberries. A great start! And I hope to be adding some pictures promised me by e-mail from Karl and Dave.

At Shilshole Ready to Go

2008-06-29T15:32:00.000-07:00

I've just set up the blog as we're supplying the boat, moving my office and generally getting ready to leave on our summer cruise. With fuel prices such as they are and other issues with our usual cruise mates we'll not be going as far this year, but still excited about getting out of town for a bit.