7-23 to 7-25, Blunden to Alison Harbor

As I write this it’s Thursday, the 24th and we’re cruising slowing down Belize Inlet, heading southbound after a magnificent day. It always makes me a little sad to make the turn for home. We could easily spend a couple of weeks behind Nakwakto Rapids.

We left Blunden yesterday after a leisurely morning, heading north for Allison Harbor and the Rapids. The cruise itself was magnificent, the water calm and the sun glorious. As we came out the harbor we were greeted by a pod of orcas traveling along nearby. We had a nice push from the current, so knowing we’d arrive well before slack, we poked our way through myriad little islands, any of which would make beautiful anchorages. After winding through the Southgate Group we toured Allison Harbor and then Murray Labyrinth, pausing there for lunch. It truly was a labyrinth, more than once causing us to spin Reflections on a dime. Noon Balloon led the way, so that gave us some comfort. While we ate our lunch we watched a loon fishing alongside.

Finally it was time to head up narrow Schooner Channel and approach the fearsome Nakwakto Rapids, fearsome because at maximum ebb they can flow as much as 16 knots, believed to be the fastest navigable rapids in the world. We reached it at perfect slack, however, and it was like a lake, just small eddies around Turret Island.

From there we made the three hour beautiful slow cruise up into Belize Inlet and Alison Sound, anchoring at the head of the inlet. On the way eagles and osprey fished nearby, waterfalls cascaded down into the fiord-like channel and giant granite walls rose above, trees clinging to the sides. From the time we entered the Rapids we’ve seen not one other boat, though the expanse of water and beautiful anchorages is immense. Alison Sound itself is really a narrow gorge leading into a beautiful large lake-like area with snow-capped peaks rising above at the head. On the way in we found the great Indian pictograph on the granite wall depicting an English ship, long boat, Indian canoes and orcas.

Once anchored we set out our crab pots near the river outlet and then took the dinghy about a mile upriver, enjoying the quiet and the sounds of birds. Dinner last evening was aboard Noon Balloon where Lenore fixed her famous crab baked in a spicy cioppino-like sauce.

We left this morning for the cruise down to an anchorage closer to the Rapids. No crab in the pots, but the glorious weather continues. I think we’d better go fish.

Continued on the 25th…We anchored in Charlotte Bay, reading that there was good crabbing. A logging camp was set up in the bay, but when we saw them cleaning some nice Dungeness on their barge we couldn’t resist. Just as we anchored we heard a large boom…they were dynamiting the nearby hills in their logging operation, so we renamed it Dynamite Cove. Oh well, sometimes you have to compromise. We did end up with 7 good-sized crab overall (mostly Gary & Lenore’s) and then were led by the loggers to the shrimp spot in the middle of the channel just outside the bay. By the next day we had a bunch of large Pacific prawns (8” long) and a bunch of hermit and what we call spider crab.

We jigged for fish that afternoon, but no luck. Considered exploring the lagoons southeast of us, but decided they were a bit too far of a ride, so…next time. Instead we watched a black bear feeding along the shore, then spent the evening WII bowling, Lenore and I coming from behind to beat the guys.

Since we still were yearning for some salmon or halibut, we decided to go out through the rapids on the 25th to anchor in the Southgate Group, one of the lovely maze of islands we’d seen on the way north. We went through the rapids when they were running about 4 knots on the ebb…no problem. In fact, it gave us a nice three knot push through Schooner Channel. Clouds were beginning to increase, but it was still a lovely day. We anchored in an open-looking spot in the islands, looking out over the Queen Charlotte Straits, and as quickly as possible readied the skiffs for fishing. Gary & Lenore jigged for halibut while we trolled for salmon as a huge eagle watched us overhead. We saw lots of bait fish, but weren’t out but a few minutes before it began to drizzle. That would have been fine, but when we saw a pretty significant rain squall headed our way, thought it best to head back to Reflections and Noon Balloon.

As we began preparing our seafood feast that evening, we heard two humpbacks blowing just outside the island where we’d been fishing. We never did see them, but it was fun listening to them in the quiet early evening while we enjoyed our cocktails and guacamole on Reflections’ flybridge, the rain falling gently on the canvas. We’ve still not seen another pleasure craft in several days.

Our seafood feast was amazing. Hopefully our picture gives some idea of the experience: cracked Dungeness crab, prawns two ways…tandoori-style and sautéed in butter and garlic, and clams steamed in garlic, wine and their own juices. And of course, good wine and good friends. The guys finally beat us that evening in WII bowling and the evening was topped off with an episode of Planet Earth and tea with schnapps.

The picture’s are all from Gary’s camera. Somehow, when we were viewing ours I managed to delete them before getting them copied into a file. Bummer! But thank you, Gary!

P.S. I just was able to upload a couple of the photos to the July 10th blog sent us by Dave Hurlein from our Decatur Island stop on the way north.